In the Delhi Underbelly

I am now in Delhi and my trip is about to end. Quite a wierd feeling in a way. I am staying in a Tibetan Colony in the north and my hotel is not that great and when the generator isnt wurring away at night the pigeons on the windowsill coo-coo to enforce some earplug action. The colony itself is several warrens full of Tibetan refugees and stalls of all kinds and beggars everywhere. Its funny, because it feels the same as Tibet and even smells the same too.

I feel a little below par with a sore throat – but got this from two days in the city in which I tried to buy some winter things for my return. I also had some tailored trousers made up quite cheaply. But this city is impossible to just walk around and do your own thing. Touts are constantly bothering you and ricksaw drivers too. Its a little annoying but its also fun. In my 4 or 5 hours in Connaught Place I was constantly chatting to people and I fell for some things. They all direct you to these expensive shops because they get a commission for taking you there. After I figured that one out I got a ride to some tailored from a beautiful man called Surendra – he took me everywhere and then I took him out for lunch – and we chatted about all sorts. Then I did some more shopping and just needed a rest so I went to the park for a sit down. Even ten minutes on the grass on my own was impossible as five minutes in I was laughing my head off as there was a man massaging my feet – a guy removing huge amounts of wax from my ears and two guys were fixing my shoes – one cleaning them – and another mending a hole in my heel. They all wanted huge amounts of money from me which I managed to haggle down. Then the ear and foot man took me for a cup of tea and a leaf cigarette. All rather chummy. I had a lovely evening too chatting to a couple of German Dentists at the Hotel restuarant.

Oh! and another funny thing in the city was the way that a tout says hello to me and asks where I am going – I lose him eventually then ten minutes down the road he pops out from around a corner after following me. Patience is the best thing on your side here.

The next day I wanted to go to this huge Mosque but even this seemed hard to do. I got a ricksaw to take me but he took me to another place – then I insisted he take me to where I wanted to go and he wouldnt do it. He wanted me on a complete tour of the city. After a huge amount of patient telling – I got him to take me back to the Metro station. It was hugely frustrating because they agree and do something else. So now I am having a relaxed time until my flight home. I would love to spend more time in India as I have heard stories of how incredible it is – especially away from the cities – but my energies are done and I want home. So see you all soon!